Zanzibar, Beaches, Spices and History

The very northern tip of Zanzibar is home to its best beaches, those around Ras Nungwi topping the bill. Long stretches of empty beaches are lapped by gentle turquoise waters. It is picture postcard perfect.  As a result there is a fair bit of tourist development here but to be honest it’s remarkably unobtrusive and doesn’t spoil the magic one bit. The north of Zanzibar is a ‘happening’ place to be and is a favourite spot with the young, both locals and visitors. If you are a diving fanatic then the north is not to be missed. Some of the best diving in the islands can be found around Mnemba Atoll, just off the northern tip, where snorkellers and scuba divers are rewarded with acres of colourful reefs to explore. There is also a natural aquarium which is home to vast numbers of turtles.

The north east is slightly more developed than the rest of Zanzibar, but this is all relative of course and it’s still a far cry from the crowded coasts of the Mediterranean! There are some hidden gems and some wonderful beaches, the loveliest being at Matemwe. Another worth seeking out is Pongwe with its glorious hidden coves. At low tide the waters recede quite significantly along the whole of the north-east coastline and you can’t swim at the beaches at this time. As with the northern tip of the island, many visitors to this area come to dive off Mnemba Atoll.

The south coast is well-known for its dolphin tours and pods of these delightful sea mammals are easily spotted from the fishing village of Kizimkazi. From here there are organised tours to see and swim with the dolphins although if you prefer a less exploitative approach to viewing dolphins Fumba peninsula with its beautiful beaches may be more your style.

The south east is another destination popular with Zanzibar’s tourists, attracted by the endless sandy beaches fringed by coconut palms and casuarinas trees. This area is less developed than the north and north east and is perfect for families with small children – this part of the coast is protected by a long stretch of coral atoll and the lagoon between this and the beaches  provides a safe and shallow place for youngsters to swim and play. Do be aware however that the area is tidal and that at low tide the waters recede for some 100m. Jambiani, Paje and Bwejuu are the main beaches of the south east and although there are resorts and villas all along, they remain pretty relaxed and low key. You’ll find yourself sharing the beach with locals as they fish, collect seaweed or play football. There are also some excellent restaurants along this coast.

Beach lovers should steer clear of the west coast. The waters are unclean with poor visibility and there are stretches of unattractive industrial areas. If you’re really keen you can seek out one or two coral reefs which are still in good condition, but with so many other reefs to explore around Zanzibar it isn’t really worth the effort.
What does make the west coast interesting is the capital Stone Town and a number of interesting ruined palaces and some Persian Baths. Stone Town is fascinating and is called by some the only remaining original African town. There is a wealth of history and culture to explore in this city of contrasts. Most of Stone Town’s inhabitants live in a tumbledown area on the east side. Tourists stick to the waterfront and centre, a maze of narrow winding streets similar in style and feel to the medinas of Northern Africa. There are busy bazaars, full of wonders, and grand Arab mansions. There are also poignant reminders of the slave trade in monuments and prison cells. Must-sees include The Old Dispensary, The House of Wonders, Palace Museum, Anglican Cathedral and Livingstone House.

Zanzibar is a pretty ‘flat’ island with the highest ground being around 120m. As you might expect there are no spectacular mountains but there is a lush evergreen woodland, Jozani Forest, which is well worth visiting. This forms part of Zanzibar’s National Park and you can follow various nature trails to spot the local wildlife – red colobus monkeys, bush pigs, the tiny Ader’s duiker (antelope) and hundreds of bird and insect species.

Lying some 35 miles north of Zanzibar Island, Pemba is overlooked by the majority of visitors to Zanzibar. This is a shame because it offers a true sense of Robinson Crusoe get away from it all escapism. Pemba is flat and very lush. Early visitors called it the Green Island and nowadays some still call it the Emerald Island. The infrastructure is basic – little piped water, no street lights – and the roads are atrocious. But if you are willing to exchange this for perfect, perfect beaches and clear, clear waters and spectacular coral reefs and underwater life, then do go to Pemba.